There are few garments in history that are as iconic as the black leather jacket, and all the iterations that have been created since its original design. A few things come to mind when you describe the piece, but alongside the very distinct details, there’s a lot of space to rework, rethink, and rebuild the design to create an entirely new look, something that many designers have already explored. Originating from the early 1900s, during the First World War, this jacket was produced for practicality. It is the iconic item of ‘cool,’ embodying the effortless attitude of rebellion and punk rock culture. It has a rich history that allows us to experiment with the shape and adornment of this timeless look. Today, the jacket is available in many different styles, (as a bomber, classic, pilot, or shearling-lined) making it forever easy to find the particular piece that best suits you. Before this look became ‘downtown cool,’ there was a time in history when some people wouldn’t even dare to be seen wearing this classic jacket. Read on to learn more about the incredible history behind the black leather jacket and what to wear with each of its awesome styles.

Early 20th Century:

In 1913, Irving and Jack Schott, founded Schott NYC, an apparel company based in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. The two second-generation Russian immigrants manufactured raincoats in the basement of a warehouse and sold door-to-door. Fifteen years later, Irving Schott produced a new type of coat designed for warmth, protection, and comfort for motorcycle riders. The design was named after Irving’s favourite cigar, ‘The Perfecto,’ and so in 1928, the Schott Perfecto was revealed. The jacket was sold through a Harley Davidson distributor in Long Island, New York for only $5.50 a piece, now the equivalent of $76.00 (in comparison to a celeb-coveted Balenciaga version that goes for $3,000 today). The design had an asymmetrical front closure that moved the front seam away from the center chest, making it more comfortable when a rider is leaning forward on their bike. The jacket also has a belted waist, a double layer of material in front for extra insulation and, as Schott claims, was the first jacket to incorporate zippers rather than buttons for closure. The design has only been changed slightly since it’s initial introduction all those decades ago.

Now, this wasn’t the first time the world had seen a leather jacket. Prior to this, heavy-duty leather flight jackets helped aid pilots in WWI while they operated at extremely high altitudes. These jackets had wraparound collars, wind flaps, snug cuffs and waistbands. Pilots needed especially thick and strong outerwear while flying at incredible speeds in open cockpits.

1920s - 1940s:

By 1927, leather coats were standardized by the US Army Air Corps (this branch of government existed prior to the establishment of the Air Force.) The standardization rushed in the A-1 flight jacket, a brown capeskin leather design that we now all recognize as the bomber jacket. It consists of lower front button-flap pockets, a length that sits at the waist and snug worsted wool on the cuffs, collar, and waistband. Instead of having a zipper on the center, the bomber jacket has buttons, which was standard at that time. Following the introduction of Schott’s Perfecto in 1928, the A-1 was soon replaced by the now iconic A-2 jacket in 1931, which has a zip front and point collar.

In WWII, the Air Force commissioned Schott to produce an exceptionally warm jacket for bombing crews flying B-17s and B-24s. The airplanes had closed cabins by this time but they were not pressurized, and were incredibly cold at the higher altitudes from which bombing runs were conducted. For this, Schott created the B-3 jacket, which was similar to the A-2 but instead had a heavy sheep fur lining. It also had a buckled collar and a full leather construction instead of the wool-cinched cuffs and waist that was seen on the A-2. The much-loved aviator style has since evolved into a fashion industry mainstay. Schott continued to create garments for the military for the next sixty years.

1950s:

Around this time the general public had quite a distaste for the black leather jacket, as it was often associated with members of biker gangs… but to a younger generation, the jacket quickly became a symbol of rebellion. With the premiere of “The Wild One” in 1953, (a fantastic film featuring an effortlessly cool Marlon Brando, who played Johnny Strabler: leader of a California motorcycle gang), the jacket quickly became synonymous with the American counterculture at the time. The film was based on a short story called “The Cyclists’ Raid” by Frank Rooney. The story was based on a 1947 motorcycle rally in Hollister, CA that turned violent thanks to a motorcycle club known as the ‘Boozefighters.’ People outside of the counterculture had seen pictures in Life Magazine and they were not happy. The short story featured a protagonist that wore a brown windbreaker, but thankfully, the film’s production team decided to switch the windbreaker with the all time classic Perfecto.

A tough Marlon Brando wore a version of the jacket that had stars on the epaulets and his character’s name displayed across the chest along with his gang’s insignia on the back of the jacket. The style spread like wildfire across young Americans as they rushed to get their hands on the Perfecto, so that they too could take part in the edgy look that Brando and his gang introduced. Fearful of the gang culture and youth rebellion that it now symbolized, schools around the country banned their students from wearing the jackets. James Dean, who regularly wore a version of the Perfecto with a removable fur collar, helped popularize the jacket even more.

1960s - 1970s:

The 1960s unleashed an anti-war creative freedom that was seen throughout fashion, music, and film. The counterculture allowed the rise of the King of cool, Steve McQueen, who's signature aviators and leather jackets cannot go unnoticed when it comes to the style’s popularization. Soon enough, the world of high fashion adopted the leather jacket trend. Yves Saint Laurent, who was the head of design for Dior and only 24 years old, illustrated his own take on the style as part of a beatnik-inspired runway collection. At the time, the collection was widely criticized, which is funny now that the modern-day Saint Laurent creates what is arguably fashion's most covetable renditions of the black leather jacket today; examples being the Hedi Slimane-era Saint Laurent L01 and L17.

The jacket’s popularization in fashion continued to grow throughout the following decades and eventually took hold of the emerging punk sub-culture of the mid-70s, which became well associated with the music industry. The Sex Pistols, Blondie, Joan Jett and The Ramones were among many others who wore the look as it continued to embody the counterculture and rebellion that ran strong throughout American youth. Now the jacket had studs, pins, patches, paint, prints and other mixed metals added to the style. From then on, the Perfecto jacket established itself as an iconic and even semi-political statement.

1980s - 1990s:

The Perfecto was still successfully embodying the mod from the 1950s, but the design origins of the Leather Jacket was about to make a strong comeback in the 1980s. Pulling from its military/aviator background, the leather bomber jacket soon became a must have piece in everyone’s wardrobe. The demanding direction in design allowed the bomber jacket to re-visit fashionable uniformity. Schott was maintaining high demand for their leather goods and decided to introduce the Schott NYC Bomber, with a borg collar design. Similar to the Perfecto, the jacket made its movie debut in the 1986 classic Top Gun, where Tom Cruise wore the Schott NYC Pilot, which soon became yet another iconic design in the style of the aviator.

When the 90s arrived we saw the rise of the supermodel which additionally introduced the age of the ‘model-off-duty’ style that is prevalent today. The fashion community was still riding the wave of alternative rock and grunge culture from the previous decades which, when combined with the rise of supermodel stardom, created a new genre of casual-chic fashion. Supermodels like Kate Moss simplified the once rough black leather jacket by wearing less detailed and more sleek versions.

The Early ‘00s - Present:

By the early ‘00s, Schott was not the only brand in the leather jacket industry who were dominating the market. There were new designers that used the original form to create more and more versions all the way up until present day and celebrities like Ashley Olsen helped usher in a new era of the classic look. Rick Owens’ entire career was built on the back of a black leather jacket, specifically his Stooges and Mollino designs. Kate Moss wore one designed by him in an issue of French Vogue, which helped him secure a spot at New York Fashion Week where he staged his first runway show in 2002. His collections are out there, but his approach to avant-garde leather jackets (that seem somewhat inspired by the original Perfecto, as unique as they are) remain some of his most sought-after designs since their initial creation. Robert Geller is another designer who is well known for his unique take on the original style, who changed the traditional Perfecto look completely with his washed and crafted versions. Even Joe Faris, the creative director of Schott, redesigned the original Perfecto along with others like Hermes for a more updated look.

Today, tons of other brands like Burberry, Acne Studios, Balenciaga, and Undercover, who are at the forefront of celeb street style, create their own leather jackets that can range from super-sleek designs to out-of-this-world interpretations. A designer can incorporate bright colours or incredible adornment into the much-loved look. The black leather jacket can now pass in almost any situation, both casual and formal. The style has made its way across seas, through cultures, and on the backs of big names. It is an item that has changed throughout the passing decades, that always seems to deliver on its provocative look, while also standing enormously open to all kinds of change within its original design. This long-lasting style is worth investing in as there aren’t many garments that have such a rich history or such a versatile fit as the black leather jacket.

HOW TO WEAR IT:

The Perfecto Motorcycle Jacket

When wearing the Schott Perfecto jacket, you can’t go wrong with matching black slim jeans. As the jacket is a heavy-duty construction, slimming the leg would compliment the overall look of the jacket. To create a timeless fit, you can pair the jacket with a white t-shirt and a Doc Martens classic boot.

The Black Leather Biker Jacket

Similar to the Perfecto, the Biker jacket is good to wear with simple minimalist pieces. You can pair the jacket with a white Oxford shirt, some blue denim jeans, and of course, a pair of Chelsea Boots to create a clean look that can work in either a casual or a formal situation.

The Schott NYC Pilot Jacket

The Pilot jacket has to be an all time favourite. The overall shape has been popular since its first debut on and off the big screen. The jacket is very warm, incredibly durable, and allows for a wide range of shearling to choose from, making the jacket an essential. Its perfect for autumn/winter weather and can be matched with a slim smart trouser, a roll neck jumper, and a good pair of loafers.

The Black Leather Bomber Jacket

The bomber jacket can really be paired with almost anything. It has a timeless shape, making it another essential to add to your wardrobe. The only thing to keep in mind when wearing this jacket is to keep the look simple. Incorporating a black roll neck, a pair of jeans and a formal shoe is the perfect combination to wear in any number of environments.

By Max Daly, Founder

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A Brief History of the Black Leather Jacket